Healthy Shoe Shopping

Buying bio-mechanically correct shoes: First, read this article about foot function and how to assess a shoe.

These Altras did major mileage in Japan - check out the laces I got there!

Then, look for brands like Born, Clark’s, Keen, Lems, Jambu & J-41 (sexy sandals!), Hoka, Altra, Vivo, Jafe, Xero, TOPO, Vivobarefoot, and Merrell.  European walking shoes like El Naturalista, Naot and Reiker make wide-toebox shoes that are super cute but stiffer / more supportive in the sole, so they are appropriate for transitioning, if you are carrying lots of extra weight, have extensive injuries/ surgeries, or if you are going to do major mileage on concrete. We evolved on more forgiving ground, so a little cushioning is appropriate. FiveFinger and Fila make minimal, separated toe shoes (personally, my short toes like the Filas much better – and they were a mere $30 at Big 5 sports!). Crocs have aesthetic challenges, but are lightweight, meet all my criteria, and can be found in a wide variety of colors and styles.

Chewbacca-themed Crocs (no, I don't own these)

Please note that I am NOT endorsing every model shoe the above brands make. For example, Keen has two footbeds, a rigid, narrow version (skip these!) and the wider, flexible one I like as a transition shoe.  In all brands, some models may be great, but others are too pointy-toed, too stiff, or have a heel. Shop carefully. When trying shoes on, you need to step on the liner and examine other factors discussed here. Try not to get carried away with something cute or a pair that feels “good enough” – your feet will get pickier as they adapt to having room to move! They will also spread out, so if you are between sizes, go up. REMEMBER: Most people gain a half to a full size as their toes spread out, and they build muscle in their feet.  It’s best not to buy too many until you know your new size.

Winter boot guide here.

Here’s a guide to adapting to your new kicks. GO SLOWLY! If you've been wearing stiff, supportive shoes, your foot muscles are deconditioned and will need some time to adapt.

A happy surprise for the Pacific NW weather – Bogs rainboots have no heel and give plenty of room for the front of the foot.

Not everything these places below sell will be good for your feet. Here's a checklist for biomechanically-correct footwear. Make sure your new shoes:

1)   Have flexible soles across the ball of the foot and also longitudinally, for twisting.

2)   Have the heel at the same level as the toe. Now that I’m used to “zero-drop” shoes, even a half-inch heel feels weird.

3)   Fit well in the heel and instep, but have lots of room in the toebox. This is why regular “wide” shoes don’t work for me – the rest of my foot isn’t wide.

4)   No “toe spring” – that’s when the toe of the shoe comes up off the ground. It pushes you into an unnatural position all the time.

Flipflops and slides may superficially meet these needs, but because your toes have to work to keep them on your feet, they can't be balancing your body. Stick with shoes and sandals with enough strapping / coverage to stay on by themselves.

SoftStar's new Dahlia sandal

When buying shoes, remember to check for fit with the shoe liner test. Take out the inserts and stand on them (with all of your weight). If your toes drip off the edge, they are too small. Standing on the bottoms of the soles of shoes is another good way to assess how much room you’ll have. If your favorite shoes are just a smidge too tight in the toe box, you can remove the inserts, which gives you a few more millimeters of room to stretch out.  If they are lace-up shoes, skipping the first set of holes can also let the toe box open up.

Places to get healthy shoes locally:

Pie Footwear in the Alberta district – they teach classes now, too!

Shoe Mill and The Walking Company at big malls (NOTE – most of the shoes in the mall stores are aimed at symptom relief instead of true health and are too stiff! Be careful!) FleetFeet (formerly FitRightNW) off NW 23rd Footwise on Broadway

REI (surely you know where REI is) Switch at Multnomah Village. Israeli made. Not minimal but good transition shoes and boots.

The Northwest Foot & Ankle Clinic has a small showroom with a variety of wider toebox shoes.

And don’t forget the toe socks (or tabi socks) so you can move freely inside your spiffy new shoes. Sock Dreams has a store in Sellwood, or you can order online. They carry unique, high quality stuff, including the elusive toesock with formed heels. I love that Sock Dreams thoroughly describe their stock on the website, including measurement info like calf size, and they ship for free. Tabio is another supplier with a wide variety of two (tabi)  and five toe socks, and they have a wide calf version!

Places to get healthy shoes online:

Hot Chocolate Designs is making cute Mary Janes with a wacky variety of prints!

Ahinsa Casual style, fabric shoes. Vegan materials. Casual style, fabric shoes. Vegan materials.

Altra Wide toebox running shoes, everyday shoes, and boots.

Aqua Socks: This is a category, not a brand! Very thin, light synthetic slippers with rubber soles so thin and flexible that I can feel the carpet at work, especially after I pull out the unnecessary insole. They *can* be a little sweaty. Search Google – they usually run $10-15! Baer Shoes high-end European boots & shoes

Bearfoot casual & boots

The Drifter Leather Sleek, stylish shoes and boots.

Feelgrounds sandals, laceups, boots

FreetUK company with a sporty line (ships from USA)

Glerups Scandinavian style wool felt clogs, shoes, boots

Groundz hsoes, slippers, and sandals

Hot Chocolate Designs Mary Janes with imaginative prints

Hoka athletic shoes, good squishy support for lots of miles or if you need extra padding Joe Joe Nimble athletic / running shoes

Leguano barefoot shoes Lems one of the original minimal companies – now with significantly improved aesthetics! Shoes and boots.

Magical Shoes In Poland. leather and vegan options, wider footbed available Oesh Variety of women’s styles from professional to casual.

Saguaro inexpensive casual, barefoot, and water shoes

Shamma Sandals 

Shoes for Crews Steeltoes, work shoes & boots

Part of the Soft Star shoe line. You can custom order your color choices!

Soft Star Shoes Wide range of sandals, slippers, shoes, and hiking boots. Some are minimal inside, basically leather socks with no padding, so they are best for softer ground unless you are smaller / leaner. Others have rubber and leather soles available. I love their Ballerine and RunAmoc styles. Based in Philomath, OR!

Splay casual, skating, running, kids

Tabis Online Japanese tabi (separate great toe) shoes, boots, and socks.

Maguro (in Japan) Tabi shoes and boots can be found at specialized resellers in the US.

Taos Their wool line is nice – most others are not foot-healthy.

Tadeevo casual laceups

Topo Athletic runners Unshoes sandals, mocs, dress flats

Vibram FiveFingers and wrap shoes Vivobarefoot Lightweight, minimal shoes and boots

Wildling Kids and adults (Re-Wild), based in Germany

Xero shoes and sandals, including DYI

I recommend wearing your new shoes inside for a while on a trial run (so they are returnable) before venturing out. Zappos is great for easy returns and free shipping both ways.